Where to stay and how to get around

In European cities, a well-located mid-range hotel usually beats a luxurious one on the outskirts. Being able to walk back for a mid-afternoon rest — or stroll home after a late dinner — transforms a trip. Rooms in historic centres are often smaller than travellers from other continents expect, and older buildings may lack lifts, so check before booking if stairs are a concern.

Relative costs vary widely. Switzerland and Norway are consistently expensive; Paris, Amsterdam, Venice and the Amalfi Coast command premium rates in peak season; Portugal, Greece and Croatia often offer better value outside July and August. Some cities, including Amsterdam and Barcelona, regulate short-term apartment rentals, so choose licensed properties.

High-speed rail is the backbone of travel between major cities: TGV INOUI in France, Frecciarossa and Italo in Italy, AVE in Spain, Railjet in Austria and Eurostar between Paris and Amsterdam. City-centre to city-centre, trains often match or beat flights on journeys of up to about four hours once airport transfers and security are counted.

Scenic railways are an attraction in themselves. The Bergen Line crosses mountain plateaus between Oslo and Bergen, and Swiss panoramic routes link Lucerne, Interlaken and Lake Geneva. ÖBB Nightjet sleeper trains connect Vienna, Innsbruck and other cities overnight, saving a night's accommodation.

Ferries are essential for islands. Greek island ferries depart from Athens' port of Piraeus to Santorini, Mykonos and Crete, while Jadrolinija and catamaran operators connect Split, Hvar and Dubrovnik along the Dalmatian Coast. Summer schedules are far busier than winter ones.

Rail passes: Eurail is for non-European residents and Interrail for European residents; the Swiss Travel Pass covers most Swiss trains, boats and buses. Passes suit flexible, multi-country trips, but many high-speed and night trains require paid seat reservations on top.